Havana is less than 50 miles from the United States, but the cultural divide between fast-food America and the ancient streets of the Cuban capital is wide. While most Americans see their country as the democratic and capitalist dream come to life, most Cubans see their country as a socialist dream that never came true, a broken promise to find a better form of government than the Americans and Europeans had to offer.

The patriotic pride of the 1959 revolution is still alive, especially in the unwavering popularity of revolutionary super-hero and national martyr Che Guevara, but Cubans are quicker than ever to criticize El Jefe ("The Chief") Fidel Castro. Some even dare to say his name out loud in public criticism, rather than using the more discreet practice of stroking one's chin.

Despite his monumental charisma, Fidel has found it hard to remain popular after his vision of a classless utopia has become just another system of haves and have-nots. The Cuban economy was propped up by the Soviets, and the collapse of the USSR left Fidel with huge problems and few alternatives. The "Special Period" of the post-Soviet 90's that led to a dollar-based economy has been the cause of much chaos and suffering.

A sense of disillusionment is a recurring theme among Havana's citizens, even the ones lucky enough to work in the state-controlled dollar-based tourism industry. As an American traveling to Cuba, conversations with the local citizens tend to include apologies on both sides for the stubborn intransigence of our respective governments. Americans openly do business with China, Russia, Vietnam, and a host of other former adversaries, but it's still illegal for an American citizen to purchase any product or service from Cuba. Canadians, Spaniards, and Italians vacation in large numbers around Cuba, but the few Americans who go there must resort to various forms of legal and illegal deception to get around U.S. regulations.

George W. Bush, the 10th U.S. President in office during Fidel's reign, apparently believes that this strategy is working. The Bush administration has cracked down on unauthorized travel to Cuba, fining four times as many Americans in 2001 as were fined by the Clinton administration in 2000, while also raising the fine from $1500 to $7000 or more. Perhaps coincidentally, Vice President George Herbert Walker Bush was a strong proponent of the Trading With The Enemies Act of 1982 that made it illegal to travel to Cuba in the first place.

Late one night along the waterfront, a middle-aged Cuban taxi driver explains that "the American people and the Cuban people are friends, but our governments are enemies."

"Bush and Fidel," he adds while shaking his head from side to side, "they are two crazy mans!"